Clogfaen Gigfran Playground

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Contents

Boulder 7

Gloggig playground boulder 7.jpg

Problems

  1. VB Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.
  2. V0+ Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.
  3. V0- Climb the overlap.
  4. V0- Climb the left side of the inset slab.
  5. VB Climb the right side of inset slab.

Boulder 8

Gloggig playground boulder 8.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.

Boulder 9

Gloggig playground boulder 9.jpg

Problems

  1. Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 Video.gif
  2. Project Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.

Boulder 10

Gloggig playground boulder 10.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.

Boulder 11

Gloggig playground boulder 11.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb left side of slab
  2. Slab.
  3. Slab.
  4. Cruiskeen Lawn Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete

Boulder 12

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 12.jpg

Problems

  1. V0 Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  2. V0 Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  3. V1 On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  4. Big Toe V3/4 Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!
  5. If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2 Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07
  6. Project
  7. No Cars Go V3 Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008

Boulder 13

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 13.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the face and topout with interest.
  2. Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.
  3. Arete V2 Sitting start then climb the arete.
  4. Wil Artemis Fight? A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08

Boulder 14

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 14.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.
  2. Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.
  3. Sitting start and climb the slab.
  4. Slab.
  5. Climb the centre of the slab.
  6. Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.

Boulder 15

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 15.jpg

Problems

  1. Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+ Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08
  2. Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+ Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08
  3. VB Climb the slab left of the arete
  4. VB Arete.

Boulder 16

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 16.jpg

Problems

  1. Good introduction to slab climbing.
  2. Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.

Boulder 17

North West Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17n.jpg
South West Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17sw.jpg
South East Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17se.jpg

Problems

  1. Easy Descent.
  2. Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.
  3. Center of overhang.
  4. Layback offwidth.
  5. Fyfes Arete V9 The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe.
  6. We Paper Boy Rappers V6 (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007

We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16

  1. Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.
  2. Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.
  3. Do it With Thimbles V3 - Sitting start and climb the arete.
  4. Harder than it first looks.
  5. Climb the blunt arete.
  6. So it Goes Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower
  7. V0 Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007
  8. The Cuban Break V0+ To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.
  9. Guns Don't Kill People V2 Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08

Boulder 18

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 18.jpg

Problems

  1. Arete.
  2. Arete.
  3. Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.

Boulder 19

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 19.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the left side of the face.
  2. Project Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.
  3. V3 Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007
  4. Climb the right side of the face.
  5. Wrist Puller V1 There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.
  6. Unnamed VB Round the corner of problem 4
  7. One Way Ticket to Hell...V3 A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08
  8. ...And Back V4 The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08

Boulder 20

Problems

  1. Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle


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