Clogfaen Gigfran Playground

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Contents

Boulder 7

Gloggig playground boulder 7.jpg

Problems

  1. VB Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. V0+ Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. V0- Climb the overlap. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. V0- Climb the left side of the inset slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  5. VB Climb the right side of inset slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 8

Gloggig playground boulder 8.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 9

Gloggig playground boulder 9.jpg

Problems

  1. Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 Video.gif
  2. Project Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.

Boulder 10

Gloggig playground boulder 10.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 11

Gloggig playground boulder 11.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb left side of slab FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. Slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. Cruiskeen Lawn Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 12

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 12.jpg

Problems

  1. V0 Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  2. V0 Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  3. V1 On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07
  4. Big Toe V3/4 Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb! FA Dave Wakley 2005
  5. If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2 Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07
  6. Project
  7. No Cars Go V3 Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008

Boulder 13

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 13.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the face and topout with interest. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. Arete V2 Sitting start then climb the arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. Wil Artemis Fight? A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08

Boulder 14

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 14.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. Sitting start and climb the slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. Slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  5. Climb the centre of the slab. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  6. Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 15

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 15.jpg

Problems

  1. Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+ Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08
  2. Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+ Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08
  3. VB Climb the slab left of the arete FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. VB Arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 16

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 16.jpg

Problems

  1. Good introduction to slab climbing. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 17

North West Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17n.jpg
South West Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17sw.jpg
South East Face
Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 17se.jpg

Problems

  1. Easy Descent.
  2. Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. Center of overhang. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  4. Layback offwidth. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  5. Fyfes Arete V9 The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe.
  6. We Paper Boy Rappers V6 (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007
    We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6 Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16
  7. Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  8. Start as for problem 7. Topout direct. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  9. Do it With Thimbles V3 - Sitting start and climb the arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  10. Harder than it first looks.
    Thin V9 Easier than Fyfes Arete. (Apparently Fyfes Arete is hard. Sit start of Problem 10. Use small slopey edges and a bad foot to slap up the bulging wall. (No foot block. FA. David Cover 20.04.16
  11. Climb the blunt arete.
  12. So it Goes Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower
  13. V0 Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007
  14. The Cuban Break V0+ To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.
  15. Guns Don't Kill People V2 Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08

Boulder 18

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 18.jpg

Problems

  1. Arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  3. Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 19

Glogfaen Gigfran - Playground Boulder 19.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the left side of the face. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  2. Project Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.
  3. V3 Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007
  4. Climb the right side of the face.
  5. Wrist Puller V1 There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle. FA Dave Wakley 2005
  6. Unnamed VB Round the corner of problem 4 FA Dave Wakley 2005
  7. One Way Ticket to Hell...V3 A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08
  8. ...And Back V4 The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08
  9. Davy Crockett V4 Route starting on line 3 using hole with undercut combo. Foot left on block, pull towards arete twice while switching starting hold to undercut. Final move off arete and starting hold to top of arete. Top out to finish. F.A Alex Williams 02/04/2017

Boulder 20

Problems

  1. Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle FA Dave Wakley 2005

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