From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki
(OS Grid Reference: 072992)
The boulders are sheltered from rain but remain damp and greasy for a while afterwards. The rock is superb sandstone with excellent friction, with problems of all sorts though there is a preponderance of slabs. The boulders are a mixture of natural and quarried with some rare examples of South Wales free-standing boulders. They form what is probably the best bouldering circuit in the South Wales valleys.
The area was found and documented by David Wakley and is made up of the following ears:
The first ascents of all problems were climbed by Chas Rydar and David Wakley in the spring/summer 2005, exception where indicated.
Along the A470 between Abercynon roundabout and Merthyr Tydfil. Park in second layby (marked with a brown picnic sign). Don’t overshoot as it’s on a bend and exercise caution when exiting layby). From the third picnic table climb the bank and over the fence onto the Taff Trail cycle path (or of course you could cycle all the way here from Cardiff Bay). Walk along the Taff Trail in the direction of Merthyr Tydfil for 10 minutes until the first boulders, ‘The Layby’ appear immediately on your left. The main area, ‘The Playground’ is a further 10 metres up the trail then turn into the woods over a ditch and fence. The boulders are spread out amongst the trees.