Penallta - Y-fronts Wall
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Description
This is the wall directly under the route "Y Fronts".
Problems:
All problems listed below are eliminates.
- "Klingon. 8m E2 5c - S. Lewis 1976. This takes the short arête direct to a hard finish, unprotected" Gower & South East Wales. (This is the arête right of problem 2)
- Sitting start sharing on 30, 32, 31, 34, 33, 38, 35, 36, finishing with both hands on 37. (6b+)
- Start on 25, and climb arête the with feet on far wall finishing on 14.
- Start on holds beneath 24 (holds are out of side in above topo), 24, 23, 15, 11, 25, 28, 29, and finish on 30 (crux). (5b+)
- As 4 but missing 23 and going straight for 15 from 24, a long balancy stretch move (5b+)
- Start on undercut 40 with right shoulder to the wall. lean across to undercut 39, walk your feet along, 28 finishing on 29.(5a)
- Start with LH2 and RH1, 46, 7, finish on 9, technical (6a+)
- Start on 25, 8, 6, 43, 12, 13 finished on 14, (stretchy 5c)
- Start on 25, 27, 5, 6, 8,10, 43, 44, 18, 19, 20, 21, finish on 22 (6a)
- Sitting start sharing on 40 with left hand pinching at top. 41, 42, 47 (just inside the crack on the right). 44, finish on 18.
- Barefoot Jim - *** - V5 6c Tackles the low line of the obvious prow left of Y-fronts, using holds; 23, 15, 16, 45, 20 , and 22. F.A. Martyn Richards
The following are straight up eliminates on Barefoot Jim.- Climb out from the usual start to hold 49, then crank up to sloper 48 and then up to the big break 19. V4 ish.
- Same problem, but eliminating hold 49, i.e. only using hold 50 to crank for hold 48 finishing at the big break 19. V5ish but not done yet....
- Same again but only using hold 45 finishing at 19. Would be nails.
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