Penallta - Y-fronts Wall

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Description

This is the wall directly under the route "Y Fronts".

Y fronts wall.jpg

Problems:

All problems listed below are eliminates.

  1. "Klingon. 8m E2 5c - S. Lewis 1976. This takes the short arête direct to a hard finish, unprotected" Gower & South East Wales. (This is the arête right of problem 2)
  2. Sitting start sharing on 30, 32, 31, 34, 33, 38, 35, 36, finishing with both hands on 37. (6b+)
  3. Start on 25, and climb arête the with feet on far wall finishing on 14.
  4. Start on holds beneath 24 (holds are out of side in above topo), 24, 23, 15, 11, 25, 28, 29, and finish on 30 (crux). (5b+)
  5. As 4 but missing 23 and going straight for 15 from 24, a long balancy stretch move (5b+)
  6. Start on undercut 40 with right shoulder to the wall. lean across to undercut 39, walk your feet along, 28 finishing on 29.(5a)
  7. Start with LH2 and RH1, 46, 7, finish on 9, technical (6a+)
  8. Start on 25, 8, 6, 43, 12, 13 finished on 14, (stretchy 5c)
  9. Start on 25, 27, 5, 6, 8,10, 43, 44, 18, 19, 20, 21, finish on 22 (6a)
  10. Sitting start sharing on 40 with left hand pinching at top. 41, 42, 47 (just inside the crack on the right). 44, finish on 18.
  11. Barefoot Jim - *** - V5 6c Tackles the low line of the obvious prow left of Y-fronts, using holds; 23, 15, 16, 45, 20 , and 22. F.A. Martyn Richards
    The following are straight up eliminates on Barefoot Jim.
    1. Climb out from the usual start to hold 49, then crank up to sloper 48 and then up to the big break 19. V4 ish.
    2. Same problem, but eliminating hold 49, i.e. only using hold 50 to crank for hold 48 finishing at the big break 19. V5ish but not done yet....
    3. Same again but only using hold 45 finishing at 19. Would be nails.


Loads more variations.

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