From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki

Revision as of 20:56, 13 May 2011

Up Problems

1. Achilles V4: Sit start up to big pocket, make a hard move up and left. Touch the first bolt to finish
2. Byte Size V1: Sit start at base of crack. Move left into sloper (share), rock back into the crack then move through the roof finishing at the good holds in the crack above the roof (just below the bolt).
       Byte Size has two other variations both at V1:
   1. Move onto the sloper and pull straight up to the crack line without using the vertical crack sidepul, and,
   2. Don't use the sloper and instead move straight into the vertical crack sidepull.
3. Monkey Magic V5/V6: Sit start at base of crack. Move into the crack line without using any of the jugs out right. Make hard moves into the slot at the base of the roof and then finish on the good holds in the square crack above the roof (just below the bolt). FA Liam Fyfe
4. Monkey Boy V4: Sit start at base of crack. Move right into good jugs (as per Puppy Love), and rock back into the crack. Move up through the roof finishing as per Monkey Magic.
5. Banana Boy - V6: Start at bottom of Byte Size crack and make good moves using heel hook traversing rightwards. Then finish as for Monkey Magic.
6. Paper Boy - V6: Start as for Monkey Magic and traverse left making powerful moves into the vertical crack of Byte Size. Finish as for Byte Size.
7. Puppy Love V3: Sit start at base of crack. Follow the good holds just right of the crack then rock back into the crack with your left hand. Make a dynamic move to the sideways diagonal ledge and then finish on the good holds in the crack above and right.
8. Start with left hand on a pinch at back of left crack and right hand in the other crack, move up to tiny crimp, lock, rockover to ledge under overlap finishing on good hold in the crack. Very strong.
9. Gentle Jess V5: Sit start with a good right hand hold and small left hand crimp, move initially high and left to the sidepull. Make dynamic move to the large right sidepull, then pull through to the crimp/pinch. Move up and right to finish on the good holds in the crack.
10. Gentle Jess (SDS) V6: Sit start to Gentle Jess. From back of grove move left under roof to the starting holds of Gentle Jess using lots of toe hooking and finish up Gentle Jess. FA Kevin Hughes 11/09/05
11. The Groove V7: Sit start at back of groove. Pull up to undercut pinch and make hard moves out to positive crimp. Pull long and hard to left hand pinch and move up to finish in diagonal crack above.
12. Infidel V6: From back of groove move out then right to finish at the top of the 'T' shaped crack. FA Kevin Hughes 31/07/05
13. The Mongrel Mob V7: From huge pocket 1 meter right from the start of The Groove make a long move to small crimps under small roof. Toe hook like mad to get tiny crimp with left. Make difficult moves to finish at top of 'T' crack. FA Kevin Hughes 23/06/05
14. Great White Starke V3: Start of 'Fings Ain't What They Used to Be' Start halfway across the roof on two good undercuts with feet on roof long reach to obvious polished (very polished) hold continuing up the staggered crackline finishing at the leftward slanting crackline
15. Starke Attack V3: Sit start at the starting jugs of Poodle traverse then move through the roof and finish as per Great White Starke.
16. Riding Hannah V6: Start on the starting jugs of Poodle traverse and move into the small roof slots. Make powerful moves out to the lip of the roof and traverse the face leftwards Click here to see the original way which was graded at V8.
17. Fat Cat Roof V9: Start on the starting jugs of Poodle traverse and move into the small roof slots. Make powerful moves out to the face and traverse the face rightwards to finish as for Honey Pot. FA Kevin Hughes 13/06/06
18. The Honey Pot V5: Sit start at base of crack. Move up into the jugs and then the crack and make dynamic move up and left to square cut crimp. Move back right and finish in flared crack. FA Kevin Hughes 13/06/06 (Stand up version at V3)
19. Start at the top of the crack traverse left until its possible to gain the start of the route Kenelgarth finishing as for The Honey Pot.
20. Launch Pad V5/6: Start as for the previous problem finishing at a good hold near the first bolt of the rightmost project.
    Dai Williams and Kevin Hughes also repeated this. This can be done static by using a rubbish undercut for the right hand, or dynamic, by crimping the good crimp with the right hand and going to the undercut pocket with your left. The dynamic way is worth V5/6. It's an excellent problem well worthy of being named. So in the absence of a name, Dai Williams would like to call it 'Launch Pad', until such time that Thomas informs SWBG of a different name. FA. Eugene Travers-Jones in 1994.
21. Dogtown V5 Gentle Jess SDS into Monkey Boy
22. The Blessing V6 Starts low just to the left of Launch pad start, traverses across the lip left and finishes as for The Honey Pot.
23. Life of (Fyfe) V9 The start of the problem just done by Pete Robbins up to the end of The Poodle Traverse.
24. The Riot V10 Start as for The fat Cat Roof and continue traversing the lip rightwards to finish as for Launch Pad.