Kenelgarth Wall

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Up Problems

Kenelgarth wall up problems.jpg


  1. Achilles V4: Sit start up to big pocket, make a hard move up and left. Touch the first bolt to finish Video.gif
  2. V0- Low start with hands on the top of the diagonal block move into the hoziontal crack just under the overlap, sidepull and touch above the overlap to finish.
  3. Byte Size V1: Sit start at base of crack. Move left into sloper (share), rock back into the crack then move through the roof finishing at the good holds in the crack above the roof (just below the bolt). Video.gif
        Byte Size has two other variations both at V1:
    1. Move onto the sloper and pull straight up to the crack line without using the vertical crack sidepul, Video.gif and,
    2. Don't use the sloper and instead move straight into the vertical crack sidepull. Video.gif
  4. Monkey Magic V5/V6: Sit start at base of crack. Move into the crack line without using any of the jugs out right. Make hard moves into the slot at the base of the roof and then finish on the good holds in the square crack above the roof (just below the bolt). FA Liam Fyfe Video.gif
  5. Monkey Boy V4: Sit start at base of crack. Move right into good jugs (as per Puppy Love), and rock back into the crack. Move up through the roof finishing as per Monkey Magic. Video.gif
  6. Banana Boy - V6: Start at bottom of Byte Size crack and make good moves using heel hook traversing rightwards. Then finish as for Monkey Magic. Video.gif
  7. Paper Boy - V6: Start as for Monkey Magic and traverse left making powerful moves into the vertical crack of Byte Size. Finish as for Byte Size. Video.gif
  8. Puppy Love V3: Sit start at base of crack. Follow the good holds just right of the crack then rock back into the crack with your left hand. Make a dynamic move to the sideways diagonal ledge and then finish on the good holds in the crack above and right. Video.gif
  9. Start with left hand on a pinch at back of left crack and right hand in the other crack, move up to tiny crimp, lock, rockover to ledge under overlap finishing on good hold in the crack. Very strong.
  10. Gentle Jess V5: Sit start with a good right hand hold and small left hand crimp, move initially high and left to the sidepull. Make dynamic move to the large right sidepull, then pull through to the crimp/pinch. Move up and right to finish on the good holds in the crack. Video.gif
  11. Gentle Jess (SDS) V6: Sit start to Gentle Jess. From back of grove move left under roof to the starting holds of Gentle Jess using lots of toe hooking and finish up Gentle Jess. FA Kevin Hughes 11/09/05 Video.gif
  12. The Groove V7: Sit start at back of groove. Pull up to undercut pinch and make hard moves out to positive crimp. Pull long and hard to left hand pinch and move up to finish in diagonal crack above. Video.gif
  13. Infidel V6: From back of groove move out then right to finish at the top of the 'T' shaped crack. FA Kevin Hughes 31/07/05 Video.gif
  14. The Mongrel Mob V7: From huge pocket 1 meter right from the start of The Groove make a long move to small crimps under small roof. Toe hook like mad to get tiny crimp with left. Make difficult moves to finish at top of 'T' crack. FA Kevin Hughes 23/06/05
  15. Great White Starke V3: Start of 'Fings Ain't What They Used to Be' Start halfway across the roof on two good undercuts with feet on roof long reach to obvious polished (very polished) hold continuing up the staggered crackline finishing at the leftward slanting crackline
  16. Starke Attack V3: Sit start at the starting jugs of Poodle traverse then move through the roof and finish as per Great White Starke.
  17. Riding Hannah V6: Start on the starting jugs of Poodle traverse and move into the small roof slots. Make powerful moves out to the lip of the roof and traverse the face leftwards Click here Video.gif to see the original way which was graded at V8.
  18. Fat Cat Roof V9: Start on the starting jugs of Poodle traverse and move into the small roof slots. Make powerful moves out to the face and traverse the face rightwards to finish as for Honey Pot. FA Kevin Hughes 13/06/06 Video.gif
  19. The Honey Pot V5: Sit start at base of crack. Move up into the jugs and then the crack and make dynamic move up and left to square cut crimp. Move back right and finish in flared crack. FA Kevin Hughes 13/06/06 (Stand up version at V3) Video.gif
  20. Start at the top of the crack traverse left until its possible to gain the start of the route Kenelgarth finishing as for The Honey Pot.
  21. Launch Pad V5/6: Start as for the previous problem finishing at a good hold near the first bolt of the rightmost project.
    Dai Williams and Kevin Hughes also repeated this. This can be done static by using a rubbish undercut for the right hand, or dynamic, by crimping the good crimp with the right hand and going to the undercut pocket with your left. The dynamic way is worth V5/6. It's an excellent problem well worthy of being named. So in the absence of a name, Dai Williams would like to call it 'Launch Pad', until such time that Thomas informs SWBG of a different name. FA. Eugene Travers-Jones in 1994. Video.gif
  22. Dogtown V5 Gentle Jess SDS into Monkey Boy
  23. The Blessing V6 Starts low just to the left of Launch pad start, traverses across the lip left and finishes as for The Honey Pot.
  24. Life of (Fyfe) V9 The start of the problem just done by Pete Robbins up to the end of The Poodle Traverse.
  25. The Riot V10 Start as for The fat Cat Roof and continue traversing the lip rightwards to finish as for Launch Pad.


Kenelgarth wall traverses.jpg


  1. 6c? Start at the obvious pocket moving up and right, hand traverse the crack rightwards until its possible to move down into a layaway position on the vertical crack continue traversing right through the crux below the finishes of problems 8(up) and Poodle Traverse, side pull, slap slap to undercut.
  2. Poodle Traverse V2: Start under the roof on a good break just before it starts getting mosey continue out of the cave and left on good yet polished holds with some interesting moves. FA Rich Lawrence in 1992.
  3. Mr. Magic F8a+: Starts at the finishing jug of Stoned and traverses right and finishes at a good hold near the first bolt of the rightmost project
  4. Stoned F7c: Starts at the left end and traverses low through a little cave then once you cross problem 8(up) move into the roof and come back out using pockets and some pockets, continue traversing right on easier ground finishing on a jug at the start of the route 'Fings Ain't What They Used to Be'. Variation: Instead of going into the roof it is possible to climb just above the roof with a very long reach across (F8a)

(First Ascent: Thomas Starke, 2001). This follows the same line as Body Wisdom, finishing on the starting jug of the route 'Fings Ain't...' depicted below.


Kenelgarth wall girdles.jpg


  1. Body wisdom F8b+: Connects the problems Stoned and Mr Magic (First Ascent: Thomas Starke, 2001)
  2. Anthill F7a+: Starts at the left end and traverses high above the little cave and finishes on the flake in the cave under the route 'Fings Ain't What They Used to Be'.
    (First Ascent: Thomas Starke, 2001)
  3. This takes the same line as Stoned but continues under the roof to finish at the starting holds of Shiny Beast.
  4. Shiny Beast F7c+: Starts in the back of the roof where Anthill Finishes, climbs the flake/crack to the jug and then reverses Anthill.
    (First Ascent: Thomas Starke, 2001)
  5. 8a+ ? This reverses "Body Wisdom" and traverses right to left, sitting start on perfect horizontal jams of "Launch Pad" then going left on nice crimps to stab feet back onto jugs and get juggy rail (probs Starke Attack to The Groove) then down (reverse The Groove)to back low wall and use undercut to go left to cross probs 8 then Puppy Love and onto easy ground and finish as for Achilles. F.A. Pete Robins (from North Wales)
  6. Wife of Fyfe V12-V13 This is the hardest boulder problem in South Wales. The problem traverses the full length of the Kennelgarth cave and is similar to Thomas Starke's Body Wisdom (graded french 8b+ by Thomas). The WOF tackles the difficult sections that BW avoided, namely the crux of Gentle Jess and the start of The Fat Cat Roof. This is a serious test to anyone operating at the top end of endurance based bouldering. This footage is of the actual first ascent. FA Liam Fyfe 14/8/2009 Video.gif


While climbing at kenelgarth today (24/07/2011) I found a Moon Jumper. To reclaim it you can get in touch with me by emailing and confirm what colour and size it is?

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