Clogfaen Gigfran Layby

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Contents

Boulder 1

Gloggig layby boulder 1.jpg

Problems

  1. Sitting start single move the top with an interesting top out. FA Dave Wakley 2005

Boulder 2

Gloggig layby boulder 2.jpg

Problems

  1. V1 Traverse along the top edge of the boulder and topout at the arete.
  2. V1 Traverse along the break below the edge of the boulder and finish as above.
  3. V2/Font 6a At this grade the footblock down and left is in, but the arête is out. There is a sidepull for your left, and a poor crimp for your right. Pull on, lock off and go for the positive rail just below the top. Mantle direct, without the arete. F.A. Tim Wilkinson/Rob Sanderson 07.05.08
  4. V1/Font 5c The footblock is in, as is the arete. Pull on, slap up, and top out over the arete. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 07.05.08

Boulder 3

The next two problems are essentially topouts but interesting nonetheless.

Gloggig layby boulder 3.jpg

Problems

  1. Start just right of the arete and topout.
  2. Start at the arete and topout.

Boulder 4

Gloggig layby boulder 4.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the arete.
  2. Climb the centre of the face.

Boulder 5

Gloggig layby boulder 5.jpg

Problems

  1. Climb the centre of the Slab.
  2. Twister Gain the slaby arete with difficulty (requires supple hips for the short) and continue up the arete on the left hand side.
  3. Shark Bite V5/Font 6c Start sitting at the base of the arete, then move up and right until it is possible to reach the obvious "fin" on the arete, and rock over for an easy finish. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08 Video.gif
  4. Feeding Frenzy V2/Font 6a Start sitting under the arete, pull up and move up rightwards to the ‘fin’ on the previous problem. Rock over as Shark Bite. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 Video.gif
  5. Hunger V1/Font 5c Start in the same position as Feeding Frenzy, but after the first move follow the line of edges diagonally rightwards, until it is possible to rock over and reach up to the arete. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08
  6. Sitting start at the back gulley pull over onto the slab.
  7. Miles To Emily V1/2 Takes the very start of Twister but then traverses left on small holds avoiding both the top and the big footholds below the little overlap. Quite footsy. Can also be done in reverse. SIB Jamie Maddison 10/05/08

Boulder 6

This buttress can sometimes be overgrown with brambles making access very difficult.

Gloggig layby boulder 6.jpg

Problems

  1. Project Sitting start on obvious hold on the right hand side of the buttress and continue leftwards followng a line of holds (low) until get come to the arete, climb this and top out.
  2. Project Start as above, but take the line of crimps high along the buttress.

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