South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]

File:Estuary 3.JPG

2012-11-19T20:33:47Z

Rob Sanderson: uploaded a new version of "File:Estuary 3.JPG"

File:Estuary 2.JPG

2012-11-19T20:33:37Z

Rob Sanderson: uploaded a new version of "File:Estuary 2.JPG"

File:Estuary 1.JPG

2012-11-19T20:33:23Z

Rob Sanderson: uploaded a new version of "File:Estuary 1.JPG"

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-19T20:28:07Z

Rob Sanderson:

Back to [[Ogmore-by-sea]]

==Description==

The climbing on the Estuary Wall is different to the other areas Ogmore-by-sea has to offer. The climbing offered is on a 100' long, and 20' high vertical wall, which is more like traditional limestone. The top of the wall peters into a gorse populated grass bank; hence much of the interest regarding this area is concerned with traverses. The landing is uneven and rocky along most of the wall, so bring a mat or two, although it's possible to do plenty of climbing here without ever getting more than a foot off the ground.

The buttress containing the Right Hand Traverse stays dry in all but the highest tides, and the rest is climbable up to an hour or so before high tide. A useful refuge if you are heading to Hardy's Bay or the Trench and get it wrong!

 

Ogmore Estuary Left Hand Traverse. Something like Font 6b/+
 
[[Image:Estuary_1.JPG|center]]
 
Sitting start from crozzly edges at the right hand end, move slightly up, then traverse left at half height on the wall, following a line of obvious holds and feature at the same height. Go for the top where the wall runs out. Footwork important!
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Dynos
 
[[Image:Estuary_2.JPG|center]]
 
1. 6b+. Start from the higher of the two juggy rails and lunge for an awkward slanting jug, right of a clump of grass. Eliminates holds in between, obviously.

2. 7a (at least). Start from the lower jug rail, then ‘bounce’ with a big reach or dyno to the same hold. I’m 6ft with a +3” positive ape index, and to latch the top hold I was at full stretch, but with my left hand still on the jugs. Feels like a long way, and I haven’t repeated it myself since the FA (sometime in 2007 probably). Landing leaves a lot to be desired, too. I have video evidence, although very poor quality.
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Right Hand Traverse
 
Closer towards the beach from the first traverse and dyno is a nice, vertical blankish wall which provides a technical traverse. At a guess, the grade is something like F6a-6b as a route grade. The fit can do laps!
 
 
The Yellow Walls
 
[[Image:Estuary_3.JPG|center]]
 
A series of blocky, disjointed walls with a distinctive yellow lichen above the tide line. I’ve found one worthwhile problem, described below.
 
Yellow Prow (6a?)
Takes a direct line up the highest, best bit of rock hereabouts from a sit start.
I haven’t climbed this for years but from memory it starts from small holds then slaps pretty directly up, eliminating any big holds left or right for hands or feet, making use of a nice sloper at half height, and topping out.
The grade is also a guess, I can’t remember!
 
 
The Slab (Easy)
 
[[Image:Estuary_4.JPG|center]]
 
Closer to the car park again is this slab. If you are walking towards the estuary traverses, look right when you see some old posts sticking up out of the shingle and you should see it.
Take a line direct up the slab. I think the rock was ok, and the climbing was easy. One for those who like to tick everything
 

==Comments:==
 
<discussion />

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-19T20:27:39Z

Rob Sanderson:

Back to [[Ogmore-by-sea]]

==Description==

The climbing on the Estuary Wall is different to the other areas Ogmore-by-sea has to offer. The climbing offered is on a 100' long, and 20' high vertical wall, which is more like traditional limestone. The top of the wall peters into a gorse populated grass bank; hence much of the interest regarding this area is concerned with traverses. The landing is uneven and rocky along most of the wall, so bring a mat or two, although it's possible to do plenty of climbing here without ever getting more than a foot off the ground.

The buttress containing the Right Hand Traverse stays dry in all but the highest tides, and the rest is climbable up to an hour or so before high tide. A useful refuge if you are heading to Hardy's Bay or the Trench and get it wrong!

 

Ogmore Estuary Left Hand Traverse. Something like Font 6b/+
 
[[Image:Estuary_1.JPG|center]]
 
Sitting start from crozzly edges at the right hand end, move slightly up, then traverse left at half height on the wall, following a line of obvious holds and feature at the same height. Go for the top where the wall runs out. Footwork important!
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Dynos
 
[[File:Estuary_2.jpg]]
 
1. 6b+. Start from the higher of the two juggy rails and lunge for an awkward slanting jug, right of a clump of grass. Eliminates holds in between, obviously.

2. 7a (at least). Start from the lower jug rail, then ‘bounce’ with a big reach or dyno to the same hold. I’m 6ft with a +3” positive ape index, and to latch the top hold I was at full stretch, but with my left hand still on the jugs. Feels like a long way, and I haven’t repeated it myself since the FA (sometime in 2007 probably). Landing leaves a lot to be desired, too. I have video evidence, although very poor quality.
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Right Hand Traverse
 
Closer towards the beach from the first traverse and dyno is a nice, vertical blankish wall which provides a technical traverse. At a guess, the grade is something like F6a-6b as a route grade. The fit can do laps!
 
 
The Yellow Walls
 
[[File:Estuary_3.jpg]]
 
A series of blocky, disjointed walls with a distinctive yellow lichen above the tide line. I’ve found one worthwhile problem, described below.
 
Yellow Prow (6a?)
Takes a direct line up the highest, best bit of rock hereabouts from a sit start.
I haven’t climbed this for years but from memory it starts from small holds then slaps pretty directly up, eliminating any big holds left or right for hands or feet, making use of a nice sloper at half height, and topping out.
The grade is also a guess, I can’t remember!
 
 
The Slab (Easy)
 
[[File:Estuary_4.jpg]]
 
Closer to the car park again is this slab. If you are walking towards the estuary traverses, look right when you see some old posts sticking up out of the shingle and you should see it.
Take a line direct up the slab. I think the rock was ok, and the climbing was easy. One for those who like to tick everything
 

==Comments:==
 
<discussion />

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-19T20:27:04Z

Rob Sanderson:

Back to [[Ogmore-by-sea]]

==Description==

The climbing on the Estuary Wall is different to the other areas Ogmore-by-sea has to offer. The climbing offered is on a 100' long, and 20' high vertical wall, which is more like traditional limestone. The top of the wall peters into a gorse populated grass bank; hence much of the interest regarding this area is concerned with traverses. The landing is uneven and rocky along most of the wall, so bring a mat or two, although it's possible to do plenty of climbing here without ever getting more than a foot off the ground.

The buttress containing the Right Hand Traverse stays dry in all but the highest tides, and the rest is climbable up to an hour or so before high tide. A useful refuge if you are heading to Hardy's Bay or the Trench and get it wrong!

 

Ogmore Estuary Left Hand Traverse. Something like Font 6b/+
 
[[File:Estuary_1.jpg]]
 
Sitting start from crozzly edges at the right hand end, move slightly up, then traverse left at half height on the wall, following a line of obvious holds and feature at the same height. Go for the top where the wall runs out. Footwork important!
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Dynos
 
[[File:Estuary_2.jpg]]
 
1. 6b+. Start from the higher of the two juggy rails and lunge for an awkward slanting jug, right of a clump of grass. Eliminates holds in between, obviously.

2. 7a (at least). Start from the lower jug rail, then ‘bounce’ with a big reach or dyno to the same hold. I’m 6ft with a +3” positive ape index, and to latch the top hold I was at full stretch, but with my left hand still on the jugs. Feels like a long way, and I haven’t repeated it myself since the FA (sometime in 2007 probably). Landing leaves a lot to be desired, too. I have video evidence, although very poor quality.
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Right Hand Traverse
 
Closer towards the beach from the first traverse and dyno is a nice, vertical blankish wall which provides a technical traverse. At a guess, the grade is something like F6a-6b as a route grade. The fit can do laps!
 
 
The Yellow Walls
 
[[File:Estuary_3.jpg]]
 
A series of blocky, disjointed walls with a distinctive yellow lichen above the tide line. I’ve found one worthwhile problem, described below.
 
Yellow Prow (6a?)
Takes a direct line up the highest, best bit of rock hereabouts from a sit start.
I haven’t climbed this for years but from memory it starts from small holds then slaps pretty directly up, eliminating any big holds left or right for hands or feet, making use of a nice sloper at half height, and topping out.
The grade is also a guess, I can’t remember!
 
 
The Slab (Easy)
 
[[File:Estuary_4.jpg]]
 
Closer to the car park again is this slab. If you are walking towards the estuary traverses, look right when you see some old posts sticking up out of the shingle and you should see it.
Take a line direct up the slab. I think the rock was ok, and the climbing was easy. One for those who like to tick everything
 

==Comments:==
 
<discussion />

Porthcawl - Frozen Wave Area

2012-11-15T13:54:00Z

Rob Sanderson:

Back to [[Porthcawl]]

==Frozen Wave==

[[Image:Frozen_wave.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''The Frozen Wave Traverse V3''' Gain the crest of the "Frozen Wave" at the left hand side and traverse right along the crest with feet in the break under the roof. Until its possible to move down onto the two apposing slopers continue along the lip and top out just for the end of the wave. A very interesting and unique problem.

==Frozen Buttress==

[[Image:Frozen_buttress.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''Four Bite V2''' Start on the obvious pinch and sloper and climb the blunt arete. Interesting move at the top hence the name.
#'''Frost Bite V2/V3''' Sitting Start on the obvious hold under the overhang move out left into finger slot and back right onto starting holds of Four Bite. From here move rightwards on slopers and polished smears until its possible to finish up the right arete.
#'''Freezer Burn V5/V6''' Start sitting as Four Bite, then from a pinch traverse right with increasing difficulty until a wild final move gains the slopey ledge on Problem 5. Finish up the arete. Has been reclimbed at a lower grade using a different sequence to the first ascentionist (possibly V4) although this is unconfirmed.
#'''V2''' Climb direct through the centre of the buttress from standing.
#'''Unnamed V1''' Mantel and top out.

==Frozen Swell==

[[Image:Frozen_swell.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''V4''' Start on a good jug, then traverse right using poor holds, until more wild moves lead to jugs just right of the arête. Mantle to finish

:Lots of up problems on this. Topo coming soon

==Comments==
 
<discussion />

Porthcawl - Frozen Wave Area

2012-11-15T13:53:31Z

Rob Sanderson: Corrected the name of problem 'Freezer Burn'

Back to [[Porthcawl]]

==Frozen Wave==

[[Image:Frozen_wave.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''The Frozen Wave Traverse V3''' Gain the crest of the "Frozen Wave" at the left hand side and traverse right along the crest with feet in the break under the root. Until its possible to move down onto the two apposing slopers continue along the lip and top out just for the end of the wave.

==Frozen Buttress==

[[Image:Frozen_buttress.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''Four Bite V2''' Start on the obvious pinch and sloper and climb the blunt arete. Interesting move at the top hense the name.
#'''Frost Bite V2/V3''' Sitting Start on the obvious hold under the overhang move out left into finger slot and back right onto starting holds of Four Bite. From here move rightwards on slopers and polished smears until its possible to finish up the right arete.
#'''Freezer Burn V5/V6''' Start sitting as Four Bite, then from a pinch traverse right with increasing difficulty until a wild final move gains the slopey ledge on Problem 5. Finish up the arete. Has been reclimbed at a lower grade using a different sequence to the first ascentionist (possibly V4) although this is unconfirmed.
#'''V2''' Climb direct through the centre of the buttress from standing.
#'''Unnamed V1''' Mantel and top out.

==Frozen Swell==

[[Image:Frozen_swell.jpg|center]]

===Problems===

#'''V4''' Start on a good jug, then traverse right using poor holds, until more wild moves lead to jugs just right of the arête. Mantle to finish

:Lots of up problems on this. Topo coming soon

==Comments==
 
<discussion />

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-13T20:01:33Z

Rob Sanderson:

Back to [[Ogmore-by-sea]]

==Description==

The climbing on the Estuary Wall is different to the other areas Ogmore-by-sea has to offer. The climbing offered is on a 100' long, and 20' high vertical wall, which is more like traditional limestone. The top of the wall peters into a gorse populated grass bank; hence much of the interest regarding this area is concerned with traverses. The landing is uneven and rocky along most of the wall, so bring a mat or two, although it's possible to do plenty of climbing here without ever getting more than a foot off the ground.

The buttress containing the Right Hand Traverse stays dry in all but the highest tides, and the rest is climbable up to an hour or so before high tide. A useful refuge if you are heading to Hardy's Bay or the Trench and get it wrong!

 

Ogmore Estuary Left Hand Traverse. Something like Font 6b/+
 
[[File:Estuary 1.jpg]]
 
Sitting start from crozzly edges at the right hand end, move slightly up, then traverse left at half height on the wall, following a line of obvious holds and feature at the same height. Go for the top where the wall runs out. Footwork important!
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Dynos
 
[[File:Estuary 2.jpg]]
 
1. 6b+. Start from the higher of the two juggy rails and lunge for an awkward slanting jug, right of a clump of grass. Eliminates holds in between, obviously.

2. 7a (at least). Start from the lower jug rail, then ‘bounce’ with a big reach or dyno to the same hold. I’m 6ft with a +3” positive ape index, and to latch the top hold I was at full stretch, but with my left hand still on the jugs. Feels like a long way, and I haven’t repeated it myself since the FA (sometime in 2007 probably). Landing leaves a lot to be desired, too. I have video evidence, although very poor quality.
 
 
Ogmore Estuary Right Hand Traverse
 
Closer towards the beach from the first traverse and dyno is a nice, vertical blankish wall which provides a technical traverse. At a guess, the grade is something like F6a-6b as a route grade. The fit can do laps!
 
 
The Yellow Walls
 
[[File:Estuary 3.jpg]]
 
A series of blocky, disjointed walls with a distinctive yellow lichen above the tide line. I’ve found one worthwhile problem, described below.
 
Yellow Prow (6a?)
Takes a direct line up the highest, best bit of rock hereabouts from a sit start.
I haven’t climbed this for years but from memory it starts from small holds then slaps pretty directly up, eliminating any big holds left or right for hands or feet, making use of a nice sloper at half height, and topping out.
The grade is also a guess, I can’t remember!
 
 
The Slab (Easy)
 
[[File:Estuary 4.jpg]]
 
Closer to the car park again is this slab. If you are walking towards the estuary traverses, look right when you see some old posts sticking up out of the shingle and you should see it.
Take a line direct up the slab. I think the rock was ok, and the climbing was easy. One for those who like to tick everything
 

==Comments:==
 
<discussion />

File:Estuary 4.JPG

2012-11-13T19:56:30Z

Rob Sanderson:

File:Estuary 3.JPG

2012-11-13T19:56:22Z

Rob Sanderson:

File:Estuary 2.JPG

2012-11-13T19:56:13Z

Rob Sanderson:

File:Estuary 1.JPG

2012-11-13T19:56:00Z

Rob Sanderson: uploaded a new version of "File:Estuary 1.JPG"

File:Estuary 1.JPG

2012-11-13T19:54:04Z

Rob Sanderson:

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-13T19:52:56Z

Rob Sanderson:

Ogmore-by-Sea - Estuary

2012-11-13T19:51:17Z

Rob Sanderson: