https://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php?feed=atom&target=Mathew_Wright&title=Special%3AContributions%2FMathew_WrightSouth Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki - User contributions [en-gb]2026-05-20T10:42:20ZFrom South Wales Bouldering Guide WikiMediaWiki 1.17.1https://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/File:File-West_End_Buttress_Beauty.jpgFile:File-West End Buttress Beauty.jpg2016-04-22T17:02:56Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:58:53Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Description */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File: West End Buttress]]<br />
<br />
==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:West End Buttress Beauty.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Topo for In the End'''- Blue = Starting Holds - Red = Problem holds <br />
<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:43:17Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Description */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File: West End Buttress]]<br />
<br />
==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Topo for In the End'''- Blue = Starting Holds - Red = Problem holds <br />
<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:41:48Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Topo for In the End'''- Blue = Starting Holds - Red = Problem holds <br />
<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:40:40Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Topo for In the End'''<br />
<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:40:12Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Topo for In the End'''<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/File:In_the_End_topo.jpgFile:In the End topo.jpg2016-04-22T16:38:48Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:38:12Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
[[File:In the End topo.jpg]]<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:32:23Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
<br />
7. '''In the End V7''' Powerful sequence through small crimps, route of the crag! Using foot 1; begin on with left hand on an okay hold just beneath hold 1 and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
8. '''Crawling V5''' Start on holds 1 and 2, and foot hold 1 pull hard and dyno to the incredibly sharp ledge 20. Finish when stood on 20, only using the holds in the description for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. '''Numb V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2 pull to the right side of hold 5 where it is bad. Move to 19, use foot 10 then pull up to 14 (the rest of the holds are not in the topo) move right dynamically to a good crimp (Left of a distinct three finger pocket at head height). Move in to the three finger pocket then beast your way up to standing on the ledge above. Use only the holds described and for feet.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. '''Faint V5''' Begin on holds 1 and 2. Move up to hold 21 then dynamically up and right to good crimp 17. Use hold 10 as a foot placement only and pull to 14 then cross through to a 2 finger crimp on the same hold as 14. Move left then to catch crimp 9 then finish standing on ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
11. '''Burn it Down V3''' Start on holds 1 and 2, then dyno to 12. Do not dyno to holds 11 OR 13 as this makes the line much easier. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20.<br />
<br />
<br />
12. '''I'll be Gone V4''' Start on 1 and 2, move to 3 then dyno to ledge 20. Finish when stood on top of ledge 20<br />
<br />
<br />
13. '''Castle of Class V4'''Only a few moves, very powerful. Begin on 1 2, move 5, 19, then dyno to 14, then 9 and stand on top of the ledge.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. '''America V4''' Sit start on a big flat hold level and out right to holds 1 and 2, move up to left hand on the arete, left hand on 19, right hand on 22 then dyno out to the big flat ledge. Left wall can be used in this.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:13:17Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
'''In the End V7''' Route of the crag! Begin on an okay hold just beneath 1 with left hand and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
==First Ascents:==<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:12:24Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* First Ascents */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
'''In the End V7''' Route of the crag! Begin on an okay hold just beneath 1 with left hand and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
All First Ascents have been made by Mathew Wright. Any acceptions will be clearly stated. <br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering the 35 degree wall, slab, a big cave section, and vertical walls. Much cleaning is needed though as the faces are quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-04-22T16:09:40Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Coming to the End V6''' Begin on 1 and 2, move up to 18 and 19, slap for 14, 9 then top out. <br />
<br />
'''In the End V7''' Route of the crag! Begin on an okay hold just beneath 1 with left hand and right hand on 21, match 21 with left hand, then use holds 14, 21, 18, 19 and a flat hold out right marked on the route topo with a big red blob. Once 9 and 14 had been caught, desperately dyno up to the flat top out hold and shuffle your feet up to finish.<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T23:22:16Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Fyfes Arete V9''' The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe. <br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6''' Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
'''Thin V9''' Easier than Fyfes Arete. (Apparently Fyfes Arete is hard. Sit start of Problem 10. Use small slopey edges and a bad foot to slap up the bulging wall. (No foot block. FA. David Cover 20.04.16<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T22:21:01Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Boulder 17 */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Fyfes Arete V9''' The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe. <br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6'''Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
'''Thin V9''' Easier than Fyfes Arete. (Apparently Fyfes Arete is hard. Sit start of Problem 10. Use small slopey edges and a bad foot to slap up the bulging wall. (No foot block. FA. David Cover 20.04.16<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T22:18:27Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Fyfes Arete V9''' The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe. <br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6'''Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
'''Thin V9''' Easier than Fyfes Arete. (Apparently Fyfes Arete is hard. Sit start of Problem 10. Use small slopey edges and a bad foot to slap up the bulging wall. (No foot block)<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T21:32:11Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Fyfes Arete V9''' The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe. <br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6'''Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T21:17:46Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Fyfes Arete V9''' The arete next to rapper traverse, one big, hard pull to 7c. FA. Liam Fyfe. <br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse V6'''Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'. FA. Mathew Wright 16.02.16<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Clogfaen_Gigfran_PlaygroundClogfaen Gigfran Playground2016-04-21T20:30:22Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Boulder 17 */</p>
<hr />
<div>Back to [[Clogfaen Gigfran]]<br />
<br />
==Boulder 7==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_7.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the left side of the raised slab and arete.<br />
#'''V0+''' Climb the face of the raised slab interest. Harder start without using the arete.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the overlap.<br />
#'''V0-''' Climb the left side of the inset slab.<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the right side of inset slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 8==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_8.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting Start rock over on the slab and continue up the slab.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 9==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_9.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Ready For The Floor V5/Font 6c''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then do one hard move to reach the top. Mantle to finish. F.A. Rob Sanderson 07.05.08 [[Image:Video.gif|link=http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=BF5_Mcq6CM0]]<br />
#'''Project''' Start on the obvious slopers, feet on holds under the roof (not the big shelf), then move out right to gain another sloper via several crimps and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 10==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_10.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start climb to the other side of the prow and topout.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 11==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Gloggig_playground_boulder_11.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb left side of slab<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#'''Cruiskeen Lawn''' Start using the undercuts to gain the arete and continue up the arete<br />
<br />
==Boulder 12==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_12.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''V0''' Sitting start. Up short wall onto slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V0''' Right of the left arete, climb short wall onto the slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''V1''' On left arete. Sitting start. Pull onto and up slab. Chas Ryder 24/3/07<br />
#'''Big Toe V3/4''' Sitting start on two sloping slots. Moving from starting position requires good foot work and body tension otherwise you may find yourself taking a long slide down banking. Superb!<br />
#'''If you're happy and you know it slap your hands. V2''' Start on the SDS problem on the left arete problem 3. Pull up and move across problem 4 then swing along the lip of the boulder to reach No Cars Go and finish up this. Chas Ryder 5/5/07<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''No Cars Go V3''' Sitting start using crimp lay away around side of boulder. F.A. Chas Ryder April 2008<br />
<br />
==Boulder 13==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_13.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the face and topout with interest.<br />
#Climb the left side of the arete eliminating the arete.<br />
#'''Arete V2''' Sitting start then climb the arete.<br />
#'''Wil Artemis Fight?''' A left to right, rising traverse using the handholds just below the top, (try not to use the top itself!), finish up the arete. V2 5a standing, 5b if a sit start is used. F. A. Jamie Maddison 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 14==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_14.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the stepped ledge finishing up the far left of the boulder.<br />
#Sitting start. Gain the same ledge as above and topout.<br />
#Sitting start and climb the slab.<br />
#Slab.<br />
#Climb the centre of the slab.<br />
#Climb the right sie of the slab finishing at the apex.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 15==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_15.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#'''Home in Time For Tea VB/Font 3+''' Climb the (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''Fish Finger Sandwich VB/Font 3+''' Climb the other (now clean!) slab. F.A. Claire Sheppard 07.05.08<br />
#'''VB''' Climb the slab left of the arete<br />
#'''VB''' Arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 16==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_16.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Good introduction to slab climbing.<br />
#Sitting start. Climb the pinnacle.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 17==<br />
<br />
<center>North West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17n.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South West Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17sw.jpg|center]]<br />
<center>South East Face</center><br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_17se.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Easy Descent.<br />
#Climb the overhanging arete finishing up the arete.<br />
#Center of overhang.<br />
#Layback offwidth.<br />
#'''Project'''<br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers V6''' (V5 for the tall) Sitting start on a jug and traverse left (avoiding the larger holds which can be found towards the lip of the boulder) using a cunning heel hook, followed by a blind (ish) footswap whilst holding small crimps, and then a massive span (crux) which then lead to easy ground on problem 5 on this boulder. Owen McShane Feb 2007<br />
#'''We Paper Boy Rappers Traverse Reverse'''Stand start on the jugs just after the big span on 'We Paper Boy Rappers' reverse the problem with some super fun moves and finish as for the start of 'We Paper Boy Rappers'.<br />
#Sitting start on a jug. At the next jug reach out left to the obvious flake and topout.<br />
#Start as for problem 7. Topout direct.<br />
#'''Do it With Thimbles V3''' - Sitting start and climb the arete.<br />
#Harder than it first looks.<br />
#Climb the blunt arete.<br />
#'''So it Goes''' Climb immediately right of problem 11. Since the flag has snapped this can be done starting slightly lower<br />
#'''V0''' Right of So it Goes. Climb the right arete of the chimney and finish over the perched boulder. Chas Ryder 14/04/2007<br />
#'''The Cuban Break V0+''' To the right of So It Goes (downslope). Start from the tiny steps and climb the wall direct via the break.<br />
#'''Guns Don't Kill People V2''' Start sitting under the crimps of the 'Rapper's traverse. Pull up to the juggy flake, top out. FA. Rob Sanderson 23.04.08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 18==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_18.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Arete.<br />
#Low start. Gain the obvious ledge and traverse right finishing up the far arete.<br />
<br />
==Boulder 19==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Glogfaen_Gigfran_-_Playground_Boulder_19.jpg|center]]<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Climb the left side of the face.<br />
#'''Project''' Possibly a very hard eliminate problem between the left arete and problem 3, using micro-crimps. The exact line TBC.<br />
#'''V3''' Climb the middle of the face on small holds. F.A. Rob Sanderson April 2007<br />
#Climb the right side of the face.<br />
#'''Wrist Puller V1''' There is a nice little problem on the block between boulders 19 and 17. Sitting start on an under cut reach up for the top and mantle.<br />
#'''Unnamed VB''' Round the corner of problem 4<br />
#'''One Way Ticket to Hell...V3''' A left to right traverse using the obvious break near the top. F.A. Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
#'''...And Back V4''' The reverse of one way is harder F.A Andrew Pickavance 18/05/08<br />
<br />
==Boulder 20==<br />
<br />
===Problems===<br />
<br />
#Sitting start. Difficult topout/mantle<br />
<br />
<br />
==Comments==<br />
<br><br />
<discussion /></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-01-11T19:20:52Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V4''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session!<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2016-01-11T19:20:22Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Problems: */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V5''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session!<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-25T22:44:45Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V8 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V5''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-25T22:15:20Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:West end buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V5''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email [mailto:Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk Mathew Wright] and he will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T22:15:17Z<p>Mathew Wright: /* Description */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around three hundred meters from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:new_climbing_wall.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/File:New_climbing_wall.jpgFile:New climbing wall.jpg2015-10-21T22:09:10Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T22:08:13Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:new_climbing_wall.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T22:05:37Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''All of the problems finish when you are stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to rock up onto the ledge. Use only the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as foot placements. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T22:03:08Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
'''All routes finish when you're stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to pull yourself up. Use anly the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as footholds. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. <br />
<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge<br />
<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20<br />
<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!!<br />
<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T22:00:08Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
'''All routes finish when you're stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to pull yourself up. Use anly the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as footholds. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge <br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20 <br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6''' Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!! <br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T21:57:17Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
'''All routes finish when you're stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to pull yourself up. Use anly the hand holds mentioned in the topo of each problem as footholds. '''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Entertainment V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge <br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of ledge 24. <br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 25, 20 <br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of the ledge, as far right as possible on ledge 24!! <br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and 23. Do this until failure or challenge<br />
your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Entertainment - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T21:48:20Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End buttress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree overhang which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in the area. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, with a flat landing, routes from V0 to around a V7 can be found here. The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder routes using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps or have BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the beginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. Heading north is a large muddy pull in, on the left western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx two hundred meters to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you will find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beech woodland, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step the wall is then on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
'''All routes finish when you're stood on top of ledge 20. Use the top of the wall to pull yourself up.'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge <br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge <br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 <br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! <br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. <br />
Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Thinking - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T21:36:09Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End butress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree angle which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in its area by far. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V7 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the biginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 <br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge <br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge <br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 <br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! <br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. <br />
Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
== First Ascents ==<br />
1. Brutal Warmup - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
2. Brutal Force - Mathew Wright Augst 2015<br />
3. Brutal Thinking - Mathew Wright September 2015<br />
4. Leap of Faith - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
5. PROJECT<br />
6. Thats Cool Bro - Mathew Wright October 2015<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T21:27:16Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End butress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree angle which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in its area by far. The flat, clean wall is around three and a half meters high, offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V7 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the biginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. <br />
Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T21:24:52Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
[[File:WestEndButtress_description.jpg|right]]<br />
<br />
West End butress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End facing in an Easterly direction. It sits at around a thirty five degree angle which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in its area by far. The flat, clean wall offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V7 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the biginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Grid Reference: 51.6546, -3.1352<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
== Conditions ==<br />
<br />
The face of the wall its self is very clean. The large ledge at three quarter height has a bit of dirt at the back, however this makes no difference to the climbing it’s self. Also the top out hold often gets a light covering of sticks, dist and beach nuts and may need dusting off. The wall seeps hours after rain which is very frustrating and continues to do so for several days unfortunately. <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. <br />
Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T16:03:35Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
West End butress is a quarried sandstone wall around 300m from the town of Abercarn, West End. It sits at around a thirty five degree angle which is very rare in its location and offers some of the best bouldering in its area by far. The flat, clean wall offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V7 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it so far. However, the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches. With the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here, if its for the biginner, technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
1. '''Brutal Warmup V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
'''TRAINING''' - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. <br />
Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner at the end of your session! <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This crag is brand new and has much more potential on the lower tier. Offering slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
<br />
Also, any new routes found, made up, or walls cleaned, email me and I will post the route name, grade and first ascentist on the website.<br />
<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-21T10:43:42Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Description== <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here weather its for the technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
==Directions==<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<center><br />
<display_points><br />
51.654088, -3.135846|Tyle Y Coch Quarry http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Tyle_y_Coch<br />
</display_points><br />
</center><br />
<br />
==Problems:==<br />
<br />
[[Image:west_end_buttress.jpg|centre]]<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V5''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V6'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner! <br />
<br />
This crag has much more potential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T22:01:19Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Description''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! There’s something to suit everybody here weather its for the technician or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southerly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Buttress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''That’s Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
Holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
And finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down from sloping hold 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Do this until failure or challenge your climbing partner! <br />
<br />
This crag has much more potential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical; everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as I’m a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:38:46Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:37:46Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
[[File:search-ms:displayname=Search%20Results%20in%20Pictures&crumb=System.Generic.String%3Aclim&crumb=location:%3A%3A{031E4825-7B94-4DC3-B131-E946B44C8DD5}%5CPictures.library-ms]]<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:23:29Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
fun.<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:22:37Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarr (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
fun.<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:05:27Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at hust over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarr (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0''' Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wrigt<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
fun.<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:05:01Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
<br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at hust over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarr (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0'''Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wrigt<br />
<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2'''Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
fun.<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.<br />
Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/West_End_ButtressWest End Buttress2015-10-20T21:03:29Z<p>Mathew Wright: Created page with "'''Discription''' This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) ..."</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Discription''' <br />
This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.<br />
<br />
'''Directions'''<br />
Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at hust over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarr (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy! <br />
<br />
'''Problems:'''<br />
1. '''Warm Repeat V0'''Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wrigt<br />
2. '''Brutal Force V2'''Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
3. '''Brutal Thinking V4''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, <br />
foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
4. '''Leap of Faith V6''' Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish<br />
on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright<br />
5. '''PROJECT''' Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT<br />
6. '''Thats Cool Bro V5'''Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the <br />
holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break<br />
and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright<br />
<br />
TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good <br />
fun.<br />
<br />
This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity Emai: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/User:Mathew_WrightUser:Mathew Wright2015-06-08T13:59:13Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>Im Mat, 16 years old and live in Abercarn, Caerphilly. Ive been climbing since September 2014 and recently complited my first 7a Sport route but I want to get into the bouldering side of climbing to help me with the problem solving of both the difficunt and technical moves of high graded crux. I have joined this group as i want to share a crag I have found of my own with i believe has high potentioal. It is in the same area as Tyle y Coch Quarry (A hard, clean sandstone quarry in the east side of the Ebbw Valley in an area of dence, beach woodland). However, this bouldering venue has many problems and certainly in parts needs some work as Ive came across nests of bugs and certain areas are quite lose. However, to make up for this I've found an huge, freestanding natural fixed boulder (More of an outcrop) with a steep overhand on the back and a slab to the front for an easy warm up. The overhang is very hard and has a soft landing with a fairly easy top out. No mats neither spotters are needed as the saft, soil and thin layer of pine needles absorbs any falls. However, to avoid dodgy lands, using such equipment would be much wiser as the landing is on a slight incline away from the boulder.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/User_talk:Mathew_WrightUser talk:Mathew Wright2015-06-07T21:37:05Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>Thank you for accepting. The reason in which I joined this website is I have found a crag myself and i believe it had high potential and holds much enjoyment. It is a like of natral sandstone outcraps. Located in dense pine woodland on the west hill side of Abercarn, Caerphilly in the same area as the sport venue of Tyle y Coch Quarry. All though the crag is hard to find, it offers some amazing, conveniant climbs for the locals like myself.<br />
<br />
Many of the walls are broken and lose. However, some of the rock faces are hard and very compact offering some amazing problems.<br />
<br />
The most impressive of all is an outcrop on an angle of about 45degreese holding a fair sized overhang on the back and a slab on the front. The rock is around a meter thick and is very compact, leaving very strong holds of both crimps and slopers as well as a few dinos. One area of the rock is a little brittle. However, with a little work i believe this could be resolved. I have spent hours on end here on my own whilst having good fun. Surprisingly the floor is very clean and stays shrub free all year round and the boulders stay relatively clean. Hoever, a brush is still needed as pine needles call onto the top of the boulder. The landing is on a slight incline so a spotter is recommended as well as bouldering mats not being crucial as the floor is very soft and rock free! <br />
<br />
Many of the other compant rock faces holds some pretty awesome bouldering too but i have not spent much time on them as the boulder i just mentioned is most enjoyable and has plenty to do! <br />
<br />
Thank you for any time spent reading and a response would be much appreciated! <br />
Contact by email or for a more reliable response message via facebook by Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Talk:Dinas_RockTalk:Dinas Rock2015-06-07T21:09:33Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>Dinas Rock very beautiful place with some very impressive routes mostly for sport. But, as for the bouldering, it is insanely polished, and if you are new to limestone like myself do not make any major commitments to this crag as I did. I rode my bike 64 mile to find out that I slip off every hold as my shoes were not the best and It was my first limestone climbing I rode back home in huge disappointment.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Talk:Dinas_RockTalk:Dinas Rock2015-06-07T21:08:09Z<p>Mathew Wright: Created page with "Dinas Rock very beautiful place with some very impressive routes mostly for sport. But, as for the bouldering, it is insanely polished, and if you are new to limestone like mysel..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Dinas Rock very beautiful place with some very impressive routes mostly for sport. But, as for the bouldering, it is insanely polished, and if you are new to limestone like myself do not make any major commitments to this crag as I did. I rode my bike 64 mile to find out that I slip off every hold and rode back home in huge disappointment.</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/User:SwbgUser:Swbg2015-06-07T20:54:50Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>Hi Everyone,<br />
<br />
Firstly I'd like to say, thank you, for using my Wiki.<br />
<br />
If you would like to discussion anything please add a topic to this discussion page or if its more sensitive then sent me an email to mailto:contributions@swbg.co.uk.<br />
<br />
Once again<br />
Thanks for using this Wiki<br />
<br />
Dave</div>Mathew Wrighthttps://www.swbg.co.uk/wiki/index.php/User:SwbgUser:Swbg2015-06-07T20:42:58Z<p>Mathew Wright: </p>
<hr />
<div>Hi Everyone,<br />
<br />
Firstly I'd like to say, thank you, for using my Wiki.<br />
<br />
If you would like to discussion anything please add a topic to this discussion page or if its more sensitive then sent me an email to mailto:contributions@swbg.co.uk.<br />
<br />
Once again<br />
Thanks for using this Wiki<br />
<br />
Dave<br />
<br />
Hello, Im Mat. I have not been climbing for very long but I have hit a dead point in my climbing to tackeling 7b cruxes. I'm keen to begin bouldering as I very much enjoy it and I would like to develop my skills and stregth in order to tackle them more difficult cruxes. I joined this website as I wish to share with everybody a crag in which I have found near to where I live. It is a line of natral outcrops located in the dense pine woodland on the west hill side of Abercarn, Caerphilly. Some of the faces are very broken and lose and others having quality problems. The most impressive is an amazing but differant kind of outcrop, on an angle of about 45 degrees with a slab on the front side and to the back an impressive overhang. I believe this boulder/outcrop has very high potential as I have spent hours on end there as well as me spending several hours cleaning it. It has both easy and fairly difficult problems all of which are very enjoyable, containing both slopers, crimps and dynos. The boulders are difficult to find but once found, they happen to be fairly conveniant for locals like myself. Email me either by email or for a more active responce, facebook me by Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk. Thank you for your time.</div>Mathew Wright