West End Buttress

From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki

Revision as of 21:37, 20 October 2015

Discription

This stunning quarried wall at around a thirty five degree angle offers high quality, safe bouldering with both easy (V0) and hard routes (up to V8 I believe) The holds are sharp in places as its only had me climbing on it, however the climbing is still very pleasant and enjoyable. Many of the routes have large flat holds and pinches and the harder using the more difficult pockets, slopers, micro crimps and BIG dinos! Theres something to suit everybody here weather its for the technition or the power based climber.

Directions

Just past the town of Abercarn West End, Gwent. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car in. Walk in a Southelly direction towards Abercarn West end for approx 200m to reach a medium road side quarry on your right. On the right side of the quarry you should find a steep muddy banking with two steps at just over a foot high. Climb this with difficulty before it flattens out onto the upper tier of the quarry (To the right the trail will run into the beach wood land, follow this to Tyle Y Coch quarry). To reach West End Butress stay in the upper tier of the quarry but follow it left to drop down off a two foot step to have the wall obvious on your right. Enjoy!

Problems:

1. Warm Repeat V0 Foothold 1, with hands on the flat holds 1 and 2,move to 3, pinch 6, flat 8, flat 11, ledge 20. F.A. Mathew Wright

2. Brutal Force V2 Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, 20 F.A. Mathew Wright

3. Brutal Thinking V4 Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to pinch 6, flat 7, foot 10, crimp 9, Finish Ledge F.A. Mathew Wright

4. Leap of Faith V6 Foothold 1, hands on flat holds 1 and 2, move to 11, 12 or 13 then finish on the far right side of 20 ledge F.A. Mathew Wright

5. PROJECT Guess on V8. Foothold 1, hand on flat hold 1 and 2, move to micro 21, 18, 19, 22, 23, 20 PROJECT

6. Thats Cool Bro V5Foothold 1, move to pinch 6, flat 11, 13, using some cool footwork, use only the holds used as handholds in the problem and reach for an obvious two/three finger pocket on the right after a break and finish on the far right side of ledge, as far as possible on 20! F.A Mathew Wright

TRAINING - Hang from 11 and 13, move up and back down simumatically from sloping holds 14 and the risen part above hold 13 on ledge 20. Good [[File:search-ms:displayname=Search%20Results%20in%20Pictures&crumb=System.Generic.String%3Aclim&crumb=location:%3A%3A{031E4825-7B94-4DC3-B131-E946B44C8DD5}%5CPictures.library-ms]]

This crag has much more potentential on the lower tier, slabs, roofs, vertical, everything you can think of this crag has it. Much cleaning is needed though as the crag is quite overgrown. Let me know of any activity please as im a local and happy to help.

Email: Mathewwright1998@yahoo.co.uk