From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki
Situated on the mountainside to the left (west) of the A4049 / A4069 if heading from New Tredegar to Pontlottyn.
Parking and Approach
There are 3 areas, the first 2 where the bulk of the climbing is and a 3rd 300yds further along the A469, opposite the lay by near the pub.
Descriptions and Grades provided by Chris Evans. Nice work.
10 Yards past the junction between the A4049 / A4069 just after leaving New Tredegar is a left turn up a mountain/farm rd. Turn left and follow this to the first passing place and a sty in the fence. 10 seconds along the path from the passing place is a small quarry on the left with the graffiti Dai 1986. Continuing along the mountainside at the same height is the amazing and tilting, narrow wafer thin boulder with grafitti CW, on the side. Further along the mountain side are 2 overhanging buttresses, the first broad and curving around the mountain, the second a narrow nose of rock protruding above the path.
The small quarry ranging from 12ft to 18ft in height (just over vertical) with twin cracks splitting the quarry and the graffiti Dai 1986 on the right-hand wall. The left hand wall and middle wall suffer from seepage. Better than appearances suggest.
- V0- Aid Mental. Just to the left and infront of the quarry is a 7ft high small boulder with Dai written on it. Jump to the lip and mantelshelf. An easy problem with an easy anagram of a name describing the location and move needed to solve the problem.
- V0 The left wall of the quarry to the left of the 1st crack. Rock dirtier compared to the rest of the problems and a slight slope at the bottom for the bouldering mat. So either reverse the problems or be good at landing.
- V0 The left hand side of the wall is slightly harder than the right.
- ‘D’ on the right wall of the quarry (dai 1986). Start with your righthand in the D of Dai. Crimp up the wall and make the crux move to a finger slot. Project.
- V3 ‘I’ from the ‘I’ of Dai, crimps and dyno to top. (finishing hold gets wet and needs reg cleaning).
- V0 ‘19’ A low start from a side pull leads to the top.
7,8 and 9. ‘86’ 2 problems from the 86 on the graffiti.
- V0+ The left climbs the wall and uses the left hand end of the sloping ledge.
- V1 The right climbs the wall and uses right, slopier end of the sloping ledge.
- V2/3 As 8 with a sitting start from left hand flake.
- V0- ‘6’ Squeezed in on the right hand side of the quarry, climb the flake crack and use crimps on the right hand side of sloping ledge.
- 11 A low left to right traverse of the quarry (project)
- V1 Variation of problem 5. Dyno from right hand side pull in the crack. Useful to check the finishing hold for problem 5.
- V0- Traverse the lip of the wafer from right to left.
- V2 As above with a sitting start, careful not to roll down into quarry below.
- V4/5 Right to left traverse of the wafer across the wall, not using the edge, except to start.
Needs a good brushing to clean, but will provide 4/5 problems and footless traverses.
The best boulder in the 3 areas, will be even better with traffic and more cleaning
- V1 Sitting start, climb the nose and find brushed holds on left to the top.
- V3 As for 1 but use holds all the way up the nose only.
- V1/2 Start as for 1 then slightly right using crimps on the wall.
- V0 Wall 3ft to the right of the nose.
- V1-V4 Low left to right traverse before finishing up either problem 1,2 or 3.
Area 2 and 2 ½
Range of boulders on the crest of the ridge. Are the boulders running along the crest of the ridge 10 minute walk up the mountainside. Park further along the mountain/farm Rd as for area 1, park at another layby near 2 sty’s. Take the right hand path and sty looking from the Rd. Follow the path until, it joins another path running along the fence, near a tree. For buttresses 1-4 follow a sheep path down and right. For other buttresses area 2 ½ continue along the ridge. Lots of unclimbed rock, although area 2 ½ not as good as appearances from a distance suggest.
A buttress back right along the mountainside after arriving at buttress 2 down the sheep path.
A small buttress with a long looking traverse line running rightwards from Higher area of rock. It has a small area of scree just below it.
A taller buttress with a bush growing at the top.
- V0- On the far right of the buttress is a steep rib/arête. (mossy finish but easy, so did not clean).
A small undercut nose on the left, to another bigger area of rock with a sloping ledge low and on the left.
- V0- Sitting start up the undercut nose. (a couple of variations possible using slopers etc.)
- V1 A left to right traverse (sitting start) starting on slopers and keeping low till near the right end and then continue to the top.
- V1 Sitting start up the steep rib just right of the start of problem 2.
Park on the right in a lay by just before the ??? pub on the A469 New Tredegar to Pontlottyn Rd. Walk back down to the public footpath on the opposite side of the rd. Just up the hill on the left you can see the top of a boulder ( Sharks fin) in a small grassy gully.
20 yards behind this are a range of boulders. With a number of problems completed in 2003. The best being up a gully to a boulder with an undercut start, (not listed most of the problems fairly easy.).
Further up is the continuation of the ridge crest boulders from area 2 ½ .
- V1 Layback up the right side of the fin then rock around on to the slab and layback and crimp up other side of arête.
- Project Layback the fin using nothing but the edge.
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