The Gap (left side)

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From the car park follow the path out left to a series of boulders just above the path on the right. First boulder on the left

  1. V0 5b The left side from a sitting start to dirty finish.
  2. Clamped V2 5c The right side. Sitting start, pull up to reach and use a big pinch on the right.

To the right is a tallish wall

  1. V0 4b The dirty arete

To the right is an obvious overhang pictured below.

Monkey in the family.jpg

  1. Monkey in the Family V2 5c. From a small platform on the bank traverse left footless using holds above the overhang. At the end pullover top.

Right again is an undercut wall with a shallow bay on its right end. Pictured below. Problems 1-4 start as for Toobed.


  1. Toobed V3 6a. SS underneath the V prow on the left end. Pull out to the prow and traverse right and then more up to the break and continue into the shallow bay and finish on the arete (no top). Brilliant.
  2. V??? Start as for Toobed,but continue along the lip until you come to a blunt arete before entering the swallow bay. Pull out of the lip using a crimpy hold in the arete and up to the break. Finished as for Toobed. Open Project.
  3. V3 6a. Start as for Toobed and continue along the lip until its possible to pull up to the break via the obvious pocket pictured above.
  4. V??? A futher variation of Toobed. Elmininate the obvious pocket pictured above. Beleive this is possible by making some powerful moves into the corner and finish on the arete. Open Project

Continue up the main path and as it bends right there is an obvious low rectangular boulder above the path on the left .

  1. Fuddrucker V1 5b. SS, from the left pull up and traverse right using the top and the shelf to a sit down finish.
  2. Hip hip hooray (Mike's Problem) V2 5c. Climb the centre of the boulder from a ss.

All above problems by Chas Ryder May/June 2003

From The Left Hand Area (after Fuddrucker boulder) continue up the path on to the top of the ridge and continue to an area of natural pavement. From the right hand side of this descend the hillside slightly leftwards for 50 metres and passing through a gap between two boulders to reach an obvious (though hidden) low leaning boulder with a horizontal break. Pictured below.


  1. Underlining V3 6b From a sitting start on the left side follow the break until a low foothold near the end allows the lip to be reached and then good flakes which are used to move up and right to finish on the top end of the boulder. Possibly the best boulder traverse in the Valleys. Chas Ryder July 2003


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