The Gap

From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki

Contents 1 Description 2 The Gap (West) 3 Location 4 Comments

Description

More bouldering than you'd think.

From right to left looking up from the car park :-

Square wall overlooking flat ridge . 5 good up problems and a low level traverse.

There are a number of lumps of rock along the hillside towards the Gap itself.

Rectangular Wall (S.E.Wales and Gower guide). Wall up to the fault contains endless problems and eliminates to keep you happy all on fingery holds and pockets.

To the left of Rectangular Wall the bay, Overtaken by Lichen contains two problems.

1. Me Me Me! (5b) On right side (bottom right to top left) start as for the only problem so far in the bay on the right. Directly up the wall just left of the arete to a small crack. Chas Ryder 11/5/02
2. Black Tongue 6a V4 Left side of the Bay on the right side of the obvious black slab. Starting at the big slot, use a hold on the arete to reach the sall slot and then the break to finish. Chas Ryder 17/9/03

• Sun Wall is an undercut narrow wall further to the left . Slab to right of wall. Right arête of wall is good (5b+),as is the left arete(5b). Centre of wall is a project.

• Left again is an obvious wall with undercut/cave on its right side, Bitesize, Pull out of cave and follow fault leftwards(5b).

• Below is Prow Boulder. 3 problems , the prow direct (5a),traverse the edge with the hands from same start (4c) and north side direct (4b).

Other bits of rock exist in the area.

The Gap (West)

Approach, walk through the actual Gap and towards Square Wall to reach a low wall with an obvious rounded nose/undercut arete on its right side.

1. Praying Hands V2 Climb the arete using the big sloper near top. F.A. Chas Ryder 24.5.08

Here's a couple of videos of boulder problem starts to some of the routes up the Gap (Loctite V7 and Get Flossed V5/6 )

• Left Side
• Upper North

Location

Turn off the A470 at the Mountain Ask/Nelson roundabout, head towards Nelson, at the next roundabout turn left, follow this road for about a mile. Turn left across a narrow bridge just before you come to a pelican crossing. Continue up a steap hill until you go over the A470, taking the first right, follow this lane past a house until you come to an open space directly under the lower quarry of The Gap. Parking can be found here. See Map for details.

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