Swansea Bay

From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki

Description

On the Swansea bay front there is a foot bridge passing over the Oystermonth Road offering some excellent buildering and several extended problems to the top of the bridge structure, although it's recommended that a top rope be used provided the railings give adequate anchors but I'll leave this down to the individuals decision. The majority of the problems are on the shore side of the bridge with the best of landings, nice soft sand. Access: Just out of range of the highest spring tides and on the public beach, so no problems with access at all.

There are more routes on the roadside of the bridge but these tend to be dirty and confined. Also, must scope for development of routes on the bridge structure on the other side of the road.

Grading: The grades of the routes are unknown (both boulder and lead are all unconfirmed, verification is needed). Some of the problems have been graded but verification is still needed.

1. The Bridge - Shore side
2. Two small turrets

Location

Situated in Swansea at the end of St. Helens Road, where it joins Mumbles Road/Oystermonth Road by the beach. From the bridge top you should be able to see the Town Hall and the Patti Pavillion.

Swansea Bay - The Bridge

From the beach side, the routes are lettered then numbered from west to east (left to right as you look at it). Many will be chalked up already, as the soft sand landing is popular with locals. Problems highlighted in bold are recommended. Problems recommended by Stere Merchant.

This page was provided by Steve.J. Merchant. Nice one mat! And the problems on the pillers marked by "Face only" were have been graded by Andre Manuzio.

Problems

1. direct up pillar
2. 6b/+ direct up pillar - face only
3. direct up pillar
4. 7a/+ harder for short people? direct up pillar - face only
5. follow obvious line of pockets over arch. Pumpy and classic! Caution should be taken as there is protuding steps directly below the apex of the arch.
6. low traverse between arches (both ways)
7. follow crack finishing left on pockets
8. follow crack finishing direct at bottom of pillar
9. direct to ledge
10. arete to ledge
11. traverse inside arch (both ways)
12. traverse inside arch (both ways)
13. arete to pockets
14. low traverse of middle section (both ways) *
15. high traverse of middle section (both ways) following line of obvious pockets
16. direct left ? of face
17. 6a+ It is possible to climb the midle of the face
18. direct right ? of face
19. 5c arete to pockets
20. 6b left of face to pockets
21. 6a central face to pockets
22. right face to pockets
23. 5b arete pockets
24. 6a left of face to pockets
25. 5a right of face using the hold adjacent of the metal thing as sidepulls or
26. 6a eliminate the metal thing
27. 5a arete to pockets
28. traverse inside arch (both ways)
29. traverse inside arch (both ways)
30. 4c arete to pockets
31. face to left pillar
32. face to right pillar
33. up and over arch
34. low traverse between arches (both ways)
35. 7b+/7c? left to right traverse inside arch, finish exiting arch onto face facing the road (Pumpy and classic!)
36. climb between the arch and the piller
37. direct up pillar
38. 6c/+ direct up pillar - face only
39. direct up pillar
40. 6a+ direct up pillar - face only

Routes

18. the left corner is about E3 5b
20. the middle of the wall is probably worth E6 6b
22. right corner is alsoabout E3 5b

Swansea Bay - Turrets

Andre Manuzio has found a new area located not far from the bridge which holds two small turrets, providing plenty of climbing on big holds. Pictured below is a photo of one of the turrets. Due to Andre returning to Italy he was unable to document any of the problems here so if any of you out there could document the problems and send them into me I would be very grateful. As I won't be able to go there myself because of a bouldering accident I've had, and managed to brake my angle and severely bruised the other foot.

Comments