Porthcawl - Frozen Wave Area

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Frozen Wave

Frozen wave.jpg

Problems

  1. The Frozen Wave Traverse V3

More commonly done from right to left. Start from the right hand side of the roof and follow the lip to about half way along to a prominent pinch. From the pinch bump up for the top and traverse this leftwards to the end of the roof. Can be done L to R, dropping down as well. Ed Rees/Harrowians late 1990s

2. Rhian's Rack V4"" As for the Frozen Wave Traverse, but do not move up at the pinch and continue moving left to the end of the roof without touching the top. Gain the bounding left hand arete of the buttress to finish. Goi Ashmore 2013

Frozen Buttress

Frozen buttress.jpg

Problems

  1. Four Bite V2 Start on the obvious pinch and sloper and climb the blunt arete. Interesting move at the top hence the name.
  2. Frost Bite V2/V3 Sitting Start on the obvious hold under the overhang move out left into finger slot and back right onto starting holds of Four Bite. From here move rightwards on slopers and polished smears until its possible to finish up the right arete.
  3. Freezer Burn V5/V6 Start sitting as Four Bite, then from a pinch traverse right with increasing difficulty until a wild final move gains the slopey ledge on Problem 5. Finish up the arete. Has been reclimbed at a lower grade using a different sequence to the first ascentionist (possibly V4) although this is unconfirmed.
  4. Leonardo V2 Climb direct through the centre of the buttress from standing. Ed Rees 1990s
  5. Squid Law V1 Mantel and top out. Ed Rees 1990s

Frozen Swell

Frozen swell.jpg

Problems

  1. V4 Start on a good jug, then traverse right using poor holds, until more wild moves lead to jugs just right of the arête. Mantle to finish
Lots of up problems on this. Topo coming soon

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