Ogmore-by-Sea - Daylight Robbery Area

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Daylight Robbery traverse

This area is situated opposite Area 4 depicted in the floor plan.

Problems:

1. Robbed Arete. 6b+/V4 Start sitting on a sloper and a crimp, then climb the arête, using holds on both sides, and topping out with extreme roundedness. Climbed and named by a raider from North Wales, to try and wind me up. A quality problem with some unique holds and unusual moves.F.A. Drew Withey
   1. Variation- Robbed Arete Super Low. 7b+/V8-9 If this is too easy try the super low start, which starts from the slot at the back, then moves out to the arête eliminating the wall to the left. The hardest problem in the bay, with only 1 ascent as far as I know. F.A Mick Adams
2. Daylight Robbery 7b/V8 (unconfirmed) The fantastically sculpted obvious traverse line is impossible to ignore. Start semi-sitting at the far left end of the roof (as for the previous problem), using a sideways crimp and a sloper. Pull up with difficulty, then slap out right to gain a huge flat sloper. From here thin moves take you rightwards along the break, until you can swing a heel up on the right and finish with difficulty up Achilles Heel-Hook. Was a 5 year project before it was sent, and is in the guide writer’s opinion one of the best problems in South Wales.F.A Tim Wilkinson (August 09)
3. Hooby’s Roof 7a+/V7 A low start on the jugs at the back of the roof leads out leftwards, turning the lip on slopers and finishing directly. Highly rated.F.A Owen McShane (20th Feb 2010)
4. Hip Hop Paperboi Scandal. 7a+/V7 Start sitting below the big flat slopey hold in the middle of the traverse, with one hand in the pocket on the lip and the other in the slot at the back of the roof. Pull up, slap out to the sloper, and climb the vague groove above. F.A. Owen McShane
   1. Variation: Fatneck Special. 7b/V8 Starts as for HHPS, then from the big lip sloper traverse left (reversing the start of DR, to finish up Robbed Arete. FA Owen McShane
   2. Variation: Hooby’s Special 7b/V8 As for FS, but start as for Hooby’s roof.FA Liam Fyfe
5. Achilles Heel-Hook. 6b+/V4 Start sitting/hanging with an incut edge for your left, and a sloper for your right, then move left until you can swing a heelhook up on the right. Make a difficult move to reach the positive holds at the top.F.A. Rob Sanderson
6. Hard Graft V8 Start as for Hooby's Roof reach out with right hand to poor sloper then span leftwards to the arete and hug your way up this. F.A. Rob Lamey/Andy Swan 30th june 2008

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