From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki
A recently developed car park providing numerous problems on walls built from sandstone-block bricks. The car park also has lamp posts situated within the grounds making it ideal for a session after a hard days work in late evening or even when its too dark to climb anywhere else in the evenings. The problems in the car park are spit up into several sections:
- Beveled Edge
- Slab - Warm up wall 4c
From the A470, if approaching from the north turn off at the Pontypridd junction. take the third left onto a slip road leading to another roundabout (this is the same junction connected by two slip roads), turn right. Else if approaching from the south, turn off at the Pontypridd junction and take the through road left.
From either approach, go straight on at the three sets of traffic lights. At the four traffic lights head towards Porth, turning right immediately into the car park.
The car park is overlooked by the hotel so please keep noise levels and language to a minimum. Since residents of the hotel and local businesses use the car park (and not to mention it is a 'park and pay'), to avoid conflict the best time to climb here may prove to be in an evening when its not so busy.
From left to right
- Dyno. start on two good holds, the left hand is higher than the right, dyno to top.
- 6b Emu
- This problem has been dominated by a street lamp, fortunately for one problem lost it has provided an easy descent for adjacent problems and a means for bouldering long into the night!
- 6a+ Outlet - the line above the drainage outlet, hence the name, start on two separate right-ward pulling side pulls - do not use the outlet as foothold.
- 6a+ Low start
- Open Project
- 5a Arete 6a+, layback off arete on right side. Easier alternative use a good hand hold 3/4 of the way up on the right hand side.
- 6c/7a Twilight Express V6 - Left to right traverse. Start on problem one finish up 7 keeping hand holds between the two horizontal lines.
- Lamp-Post Sign-Post. Potential traverse between lamp-post and sign-post. Open Project.
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