Goitre Coed Plan 3

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Back to Goitre Coed Rocks


Corner Boulder

Reached by crossing fence (stile on ridge) and following fence line to next series of boulders. Most interesting problem is a small undercut boulder tipped through 90 degrees. Sitting start to layaway finish (5a)

Pissoir Boulder

Across the hillside from Corner boulders. Low roof on right with slabby top and leaning left wall with pockets. A small unprepossessing boulder with some fun SS problems and and excellent low traverse (possibly the best problem at Goitre Coed)

  1. Sweet dreams of porn V3 SS on rock on right.Traverse left using holds on lip of roof then across the left wall using a nice sequence of pockets (no break, no top). Mantel top at left end. F.A. Chas Ryder 10.6.08 Video.gif

50 metres right of Pissoir Boulder is an obvious small knob of rock

  1. Bashing the Bishop V2 SS, climb directly over the end of the knob and mantle on top. Chas Ryder 24.6.08

Plantation Boulder

Obvious series of rocks in the angle of the fence.

Plantation Boulder.jpg


  1. 5a The left hand wall
  2. 5b Via two bulges
  3. 5a Black wall
  4. 5a Wall
  5. 5b Arete to sloping finish
  6. 5b+ Leaning wall to flopover finish
  7. 4b Arete
  8. 4b From back of cave (ss)
  9. 5c Left side of arete (ss)
  10. 6a Right side of arete (ss)
  11. 6a Rounded arete (ss)
  12. Black Mamba - Font 6a / V3 - FA Cai Edwards, SA Kevin Hughes
    Sitting start to problem 2. Starting below the boulder on a jug and sloper pull directly to a goodish hold. Then carefully get your feet from beneath the boulder so that you can top out.

Crapstone Villa

Flat boulder, undercut with through passage. Located in The Plantation below the main edge but best approached from Plantation Boulders.

  1. 6b Lip Service Traverse lip from left to right
  2. 6a Over middle of roof using the right edge
  3. Lip Service (alternative) - Font 6a / V3 - FA Kevin Hughes, SA Cai Edwards 02/05/04
    We traversed from the left to right edge of the lip from a hanging start and using only the lip for our feet (we didn't use the back wall for our feet as on the picture in your gallery). We then topped out as per problem 2. Quite a burly traverse with an unusual heel rockover/mantle to finish.


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