From South Wales Bouldering Guide Wiki
The following has been provided by Simon Rawlinson courtesy of http://simonrawlinsonphotography.com/
Found near Southgate on Gower, Bacon Hole is an outstanding cave of real significance to the region. The Cave is home to some rare species of Bats and a site of geological interest. As such climbing has been banned hear for many years.
Recently a small team of local climbers along with BMC representatives negotiated temporary access for Bouldering only. This has been the result of a lot of work on all sides including the land owner (national trust) and ongoing access will only be granted if the strict guidelines are followed. You have been warned!
Please read the Guidelines that follow the topo and follow them strictly. This is a simple issue of respect! Littering, damage to the site or not following these rules will lead to the ban being re activated and we shall loose a valuable asset to the local climbing scene. Therefore more we shall loose our footing in future negotiations for this or any other site.
The Cave is found approx. 500m East from the National trust car park (South Gate), and is just above the high tide mark.
You should park in the National trust car park and pay! Do not park on Bosco’s lane or anywhere along the resident’s road that leads east, this will lead to difficulties when we review access.
Please use bouldering mats to protect the ground underneath the wall as it is susceptible to erosion
Brush away any tick marks before you leave!
No BBQ’s or fires in the site as this could disturb the bats/birds etc..
The Cave is home to many test pieces that although are not of national significance in terms of aesthetic lines, are a real find for the power hungry bouldering fanatic, similar to Parisella’s in the north.
Pure evil! This 60 degree wall is home to many classics steep crimp fests. Many of South Wales hardest problems are found here, and there are no soft touches. You have been warned.
Read (Access agreement between BMC & NT) before visiting, failure to follow will result in an access ban!
- Titan font 7b the warm up, start in the obvious 2 slots on the left of the wall from a sitting position and make powerful moves to a large sloping pinch. From here various cunning techniques get you to the finishing jug.
- Fall of the titan’s font 7b+ almost a lay down start, back and left from the slots. Then finish up ‘Titan’.
- Holy Grail 7c start sitting as for ‘the groove’ but make your way across the wall into the slots of ‘titan’, finish up this.
- The Groove 7c+ The faint groove located to the left of ‘Louis’ is brick hard, from a sit on an undercut some shoulder moves help you gain a ridicules pinch from here simply levitate to the triangular crimp high on the wall to finish, remember to match! The linkinto ‘high society’ is a future mega line!
- High Society font 7c Standing Start with your right hand on the triangular crimp, finish hold of ‘The Groove’. And you left hand in a Gaston slot. Bump your left hand up to small spike and then follow the crimps all the way to the finish of ‘Titan’.
- Louis South font 7c+ Classic! One of the regions best! Start matched on a low undercut and power you way onto the compression rib. Monkey up this until a ferocious finish will leave all but the strong perplexed!
- Louis south RH font 7c+ starting back and right on a good slot move up into an undercut and fire for the rib, finish up ‘Louis South’
- Louis South LH font 8a
- Sanctum font 8a+ a massive undertaking! Start as for ‘fall of the titans’ and reverse ‘Holy Grail’, from here simply finish up ‘Luis South LH’ and award yourself plenty of Wad points!
- Critic’s font 7b use to be a sit at 8a+ but unclimbed since a hold broke; fortunately the stand start is still great!
Access agreement between BMC & NT
What's the story?
Bacon Hole is an internationally important conservation site, both for its geology, its archaeology and for the fauna found in the area.
The Choughs and bats that reside in the roof of the cave are protected by law, climbing can not be allowed to take place here.
The geological and archaeological records found in the sediment layers of the cave floor are one of the most important in Europe, and consequently are legally protected to safeguard them from damage.
After consultation with BMC representatives, the landowner, National Trust, have agree to allow Bouldering to take place at part of this venue, so long as:
- Bouldering only takes place from May 1st to September 30th, outside of the ‘bat restriction season’.
- Only the Left wall of the cave is climbed on, from the edge to the large stalagmite (marked).
- Mats are used to protect the floor.
- No fires are lit (it heats the air and disrupts the bats and will damage the important cave earths.
- No modification of the rock, ie chipping or gluing holds, to be made.
What can you do to help?
- Keep away from the fragile floor in the rest of the cave, once this goes we’ll lose what’s underneath.
- Leave no litter, including chalk balls and tick marks.
- Do not climb under the overhang below the cave entrance.
- If you see any firewood stacked, please throw it in the sea.
- Do not climb the bolted routes at this venue, it would jeopardise access to this and other sites.
What happens next?
This access agreement will be reviewed annually and if the protected features of the site remain undamaged then access for bouldering will continue. Please respect these restrictions