Penallta - Buttress 3

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Revision as of 18:25, 24 May 2011

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Description

This is a small buttress hidden away above the right wall of the corner to the right of Alley Oop (Alley Oop can be identified with the letters 'AO' painted at the bottom.). Providing some of the best bouldering at Penallta. You might even go as far to say, Fontainebleau would be happy to have these little gems. The landing is marginally ok but it would benefit from crash pads saving your back against a tree and the occasional rock. Oh and a few good spotters to prevent you from the, small but large enough to fall in, rock crevasses.

Problems:

1. Start on square pocket for your left and a good edge to the left of the obvious pocket for your right hand. Continue on small crimps and finish on small crack system above overhang TOF.
2. 6b Sitting start from obvious pocket, continue with difficulty up left side of nose TOF.
3. Start as for 1, but taking the nose directly on slopers.
4. Sitting start undercut move up to good hold, finish up the crack
5. 6b Start as for 4, move up to good hold and traverse right on slopers, finish up arete. Avoiding the obvious ledge for the feet.

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